Y/PROJECT FEMME SS20 show presented at Paris Fashion Week was a pure manifesto of what the brand stands for: versatility as a means of individual expression.
The beautiful show took place under the arches of Pont Alexandre III, an engineering marvel of the Belle Epoque. Creative Director Glenn Martens offered his vision of fashion and art, painting a portrait of a multi-faceted woman who wears a classic-not-so-classic cardigan/skirt combination with a gold chain bag at day, and a revealing split dress at night.
From the mutant Strauss soundtrack to the upside-down looks he sends down the runway, Glenn Martens has broadened the realm of creative possibilities at Y/PROJECT, inventing his own aesthetic language. This season, he brings back from his early collections the trompe l’oeil spiral print, where optical illusions accentuate the woman’ silhouettes. The signature dramatic gowns seem to come straight out of the Middle Age or the Tudor era. Bavarian dirndl corsets are enhanced with effusions of taffeta concealing generous cleavages. The characteristic optimism and profusion of the Belle Epoque run through the collection.
Tailoring is a strong story line of the collection, from spencer jackets or pinstripe tulle-covered suits to pop-up blazer dresses and a twisted fitted coat. Layered tulle suits from last season are continued as dresses and ensemble where layers of fabric create patches of colours and draw a moving silhouette.
Lace appears in delicate detailing but is also taken away from its romantic connotation sewn on the inside of tulle tops, intricate tulle and lace trimmings to create visual effects when in motion.
Completing the looks are sunglasses in collaboration with Linda Farrow. The trapeze Doctor bag is proposed in a smaller day-to-day version (contrasting with its extra-long equivalent) and the bowling bag unveiled during the men’s collection is now equipped with silver and golden chains. New spiral heart-shaped earrings are introduced, as well as a new generation of broche that can be hung on the button hole of a blazer. A sleek pair of denim boots with a Japanese-inspired pointy toe extend the brand’s shoe line one step further – matching the collection’s architectural aesthetic references, reshaped silhouettes for the bold, versatile woman.
