Tourne de Transmission, the eastern-influenced streetwear label founded by Graeme Gaughan, presented their AW18 collection at London Fashion Week Men’s.
Discovery & exploration were a starting point in creating the collection. “It is always at the forefront of my mind when starting each collection” says Gaughan “looking at new cultures & customs each season in order to learn how they interact with clothing. The clash of ideals between east and west and how the clothing is informed via social, industrial and often political division”.
Photographer Leah Gordon’s book ‘Kanaval’ sparked his own voyage of discovery this season. The book documents the carnivals of south Haiti in their various forms over a period of years.
The sartorial traditions of Kanaval have also been pivotal in shaping this collection. From the use of materials and fabrics, through to the shapes and silhouettes. Tailoring has been cut with an unorthodox fit, inspired by the Haitian boys in Gordon’s images who wear mens suiting. They give a flat 2D shape when worn, echoing back to questions on 2D tourism.
The juxtaposition of femininity across the men’s outfits of Kanaval are also reflected via fabrics, pleats and shapes. The story is told perfectly through a palette of black with a lot of interest in exploring proportion and volume with the use of black lace softening the monochromatic severity.
Artist Johnny Brophy has once again collaborated with the brand with constructed broaches and accessories mirroring elements of decoration & masquerade from Kanaval. Keen’s Uneek open air footwear is also used for their adaptation of intricate detailing, complimenting and reflecting other hand made elements seen across range.