Danish designer Soeren Le Schmidt showcased the SS20 collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week, presenting his skilful tailoring mixed with playful and colourful designs.
The designer, known for the stunning red gown he designed for Crown Princess Mary of Denmark, paid tribute to diversity in sending to the catwalk different types of models – known ones such as Aia Busk and Zakaria Khiare, alongside tattooed, edgy girls and boys with candy floss coloured hair, adding an underground vibe to the show.
The designs had the same diversity as the models – exquisite tailoring alongside more bright-coloured looks. The collection was, as usual, inspired by architecture, therefore very graphic and minimalistic. Signature corsage dresses and short dresses with big, puff sleeves or exaggerated one shoulder tops for women appeared alongside men’s graphic blazers and suit trousers, presenting sleek, elegant tailoring with a sexy vibe. Colours were from pure white and caviar black to pink, red and blue. Tie-dye was presented beautifully – on dresses, blazers or trousers transferring gracefully from white to dark blue and creating a unique, fluid look.
The looks were perfectly teamed with black sustainable boots – ecologically developed in Italy along with Copenhagen-based luxury footwear brand ReyRey.
This season, like many designs at Copenhagen Fashion Week, The SLS collection was also centred around the idea of sustainability. The designer stated he was trying to use leftover materials for the collection to minimize waste, or re-use old styles that were remodelled. More care for the environment was also noted in Soeren Le Schmidt‘s pocket ashtray – giveaway for the Fashion crowd – designed as an old-fashioned men’s pocket watch for chewing gum and cigarette butts. “Minimize your foot prints” as he said.
Soeren Le Schmidt designs his cloths on demand, focusing on body proportions and likes to manipulate the patterns for his designs. This season the designs felt more sharp and daring, still based on the old school tailoring but with a sporty twist and a rockabilly edge. We are definitely looking forward to see what’s next from this brilliant designer.
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