For Spring Summer 2019, Roksanda presented at London Fashion Week her own interpretations of abstract female forms inspired by the work of architects and artists who explored craftsmanship such as murals and ceramics. A study of craft, , colour play and the female form reveals the designer’s boundless and luxurious ease.
Roksanda’s tailoring and outerwear blends elegant modernism with quiet, natural and raw textures. Suiting is relaxed yet clean: woven double faced stripes and crushed cottons appear in hibiscus, tobacco, Indian sapphire and sienna on canvas. Classic trench coats are in construction at the front, contradicated with gathered, fluid hammered silks at the back, a nod to full hem volumes of smock dress details. Voluminous sleeves are artfully moulded through fine, intimate smock detail. Light weight dresses in crushed cottons are decorated with strips of charcoal cotton canvas tapes while striped silks cut to chevron and hand sprayed with pale pigments of primrose, barley, lemongrass and cantaloupe, creating texture and movement. Evening silhouettes are layered, voluminous and billowing; silky, pillow like contraptions made to move melodically and linger.
Several techniques are applied, from hand embroidery to patchwork dresses, inspired by murals and ceramics. The same emotive hand drawn figures appear again on long languid silk scarves in pop colours and delicate intarsia knits that demonstrate Roksanda’s trademark colour blocking.
Transparent and hand dyed sequins reflect the light while ribbons, velvet tapes and sequins twist and turn to mimic the artist’s pencil strokes. Individually hand-sculpted miniature pots and vases, both in ceramic and cast in brass are worn both as earrings and on bespoke hand crafted chains as necklaces.
This season Roksanda’s bag range introduces the new cube shape continuing the signatures modernise details and craftsmanship. Shoes are in collaboration with Malone Souliers are an update on the classic riding boot in leather and canvas with bespoke shaped wooden heels. For evening, delicate babouche slippers with pom-poms.
Images courtesy of Roksanda