For Autumn Winter 2020, presented at London fashion week, designer Roksanda Ilinčić collaborated with British-Bangladeshi visual artist, Rana Begum. The art installation, entitled No. 976 Net, is created out of fluorescent fishing net which floated above the audience like a cloud and created the perfect setting for Roksanda’s collection where vibrant liquid silks, fluid velvet drapery and structured technical taffeta come to life. A perfect harmony exists between femininity, structure, purpose and protection.
Tailoring is versatile and modular, clean and colour blocked. A black and olive-green spliced gilet is overlaid over an oat blazer creating a geometric pattern. Layers are seen cascading down a voluminous gown in fluro-orange and iris silk twill organza.
Another evening look, inspired by Lee Krasner’s monochrome phase, is constructed in technical cotton taffeta with hand painted brushstrokes over an abstracted black and white print collage. These dynamic gestures resonate with the period Krasner worked at night; rejecting colour – and later rediscovering it. Faux leather is spliced with Japanese wool jersey. A handknitted bricolage coat, comprised of giant hand twisted plaits and knot clusters, provides an explosion of both colour and texture.
The juxtaposition of unpredicted fabrics such organza, liquid silk satins, imitation leather, velvet, and wool gives a richness to the palette beyond just the effects of colour combination.
The classic cubist box bag and flat box are updated in the colours of the season – olive, sage, bottle green, oat, hunter green, terracotta, cumin, amber, ivory and pearl, sliced in half in a nod to the tailoring. The new bag for the season is introduced in soft napa with the signature wavy strap and multifunctional handle.
Abstract berets are introduced this season custom designed by Noel Stewart Millinery.