Designer Roksanda Ilinčić presented her AW19 collection at London Fashion Week commissioning a bespoke installation to cement her long term relationship with artist trio Troika and drawing inspiration from architecture – this time from American architect Paul Rudolph.
The catwalk, inside The Old Selfridges Hotel, featured a salt-covered walkway and large photographic foils that cast rainbows of light onto the audience.
This season, tailoring combines wool and cashmere blends, rich ochre quilting and matlassé cut into long coats, slashed at the sides to reveal saturated linings. Luxurious day dressing featured relaxed melange jersey and draped buttonless jackets simply closed with leather belts that wrap twice around the waist.
Quilting plays an important part in the collections blueprints; padded scarves are colour blocked and printed, creating a voluminous yet softer accent to the neat tailored jackets which sit layered beneath. pleated silk bias cuts are rendered closer to the body, detailed with loose and softly tied satin bows. Carefully crafted details include tucked and frilled hems, velvet bows and Pierrot collars.
Beige, seen often across the catwalks this season was present together with Roksanda’s famous colour block and strong colour palette appearing this season in the form of dreamy puffy dresses in yellow, vivid blue, burnt orange and hot pink.
Roksanda’s bag range continues this season introducings the ‘Flat bag’ in desert Sand, brown tobacco, porcelain and navy. The cubist ‘box bag’ appears too in navy, yellow and pink-purple tint.
Shoes in collaboration with Malone Souliers are inspired by a 70’s aesthetic; rubberised leather boots with soft satin legs in cinnamon, tobacco and oyster. Loafers with hand stitched seam details appear in nappa and suede, while bright primary blue, black and navy satin evening slippers are adorned with delicate bows.
Once again, Roksanda tells her story through the beauty of opposites; strength and softness, beauty and shelter, for an intricate yet booming recalibration of femininity.
IMAGES COURTESY OF ROKSANDA