Feminizing the masculine, perfecting the imperfect, freezing a gesture in time. The MM6 collection perpetuates the rule-breaking codes of Maison Margiela, challenging our expectations of a garment or accessory and how we can wear it. For the Fall Winter 2020 season, traditions are subverted, and fabrications are not what they seem. Scrutinising the multiple lives of an object, an intense study of technique results in pieces embedded with history.
Exploring trompe l’oeil as a hallmark of the house, the concept that a piece can appear crinkled, folded, and crushed is the season’s crucial leitmotif. From the simple application of a shadowy ‘crush’ photo print to the intricate gestures of pre-wrinkled, pressed and bonded pattern-cutting techniques, anything from a wrapped camel overcoat to a pistachio satin circle dress or an indigo denim shirt is made to appear pre-worn and pre-loved. Both the magic wand and the mirror ball ‘disco stretch’ fabric return as fantasy nods to the Maison’s illustrious past.
As is a crease, is a ruffle, is a bow, the ritual of re-thinking archetypes with ladylike details sees the trench coat flourished with a ruched collar, the sweatshirt extended as a jersey sweater dress, and a man’s striped poplin shirt flounced like a cape. Waterproof faux leather is cut in wide, elegant trousers and a bell-shaped overcoat, whilst knotted scarf neck details add to the draped story of Maison Margiela number foulard prints. From raw-cut darted indigo jeans to reversed overdyed sand jackets, denim too plays with the signs of wear and tear.
The MM6 accessories collection for FW20 applies similar process-driven design to shoes, bags and jewellery, from the creased satin ‘cuissard’ boots to folding lunch bags in faded leather. A new man-style shoe features a square displaced sole with a ‘shrunken’ upper, and the ‘6’ stamp heel is applied to a chunky sneaker or a mirrored boot split down the front with a central open seam. The perennial Japanese bag is revisited in a giant size carry-all that expands with a snap-stud folding mechanism.