This season, the London based duo Fydor Golan led by Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman explored the idea of aerodynamics, drawing inspiration from billowing hot air balloons, woven ropes and the motion of flight and jump. The brand, which presented the AW18 collection at London Fashion Week, also collaborated with MTV for AW18 – translating the associative nostalgia and contemporary pop images into a colourful, brilliant ready to wear. The MTV logo appears on puffer jackets through patchwork, beautifully crochet into oversized jumpers and then printed and coated with reflective effects.
“MTV have been the voice of youth culture for decades, we wanted to embrace this and the memories of our teenage years” the designers said. “This collaboration combines the iconic pop culture symbol with the vibrancy and bright colours of today’s MTV. We’ve played with the logo, through textures and finishes, to enhance the contrasts of traditional techniques with new fabrications. We were attracted to the ongoing evolution of this iconic brand, the idea of always re-examining oneself in order to carry on with new ideas.”
The collection featured powerful voluminous silhouettes using Silks, PU, Velvet, Satin and Denim. The sky was also a clear influence for colours using stormy greys and blues. Contrasting silhouettes and fabrics created looks filled with lightness and movement, whilst being geometric and structurally considered.
Another inspiration came from American conceptual artist Jean Baldessari also influencing the colour palette with blocks of bold colour on an otherwise neutral piece and collaging of colours through multiple fabrications.
The rainbow stripes, always a key identifier from Fyodor Golan were, as always, a reoccurring motif. Reimagined for AW18, reordered and inverted, they offered the wearer flashes of colour, revealed only upon movement – on the lining of a coat, or from a slit in the leg of a high-waisted tracksuit trousers.
Fyodor Golan’s signature sportswear was reworked with luxury in mind: faux suede mixed with crochet created a hybrid of activeness and indulgence. A red tracksuit was lined in lavender faux fur. Bombers were made from velvet denim. Tops and dresses were adorned with colourful crystals. Dresses were cut apart and then laced back together in a colour palette of rainbow colours, orange, ivory and lavender.
