Spring/summer 2019 by David Koma was inspired by the cinematic universe of Pedro Almodóvar, together with the seductive art form – Flamenco.
The Georgian designer presented his latest collection during London Fashion Week, transporting his creations into the atmospheric moods of films such as Talk to Her and Volver by the acclaimed Spanish filmmaker.
Flamenco, with all its grace and drama infuses the collection in silhouette, movement and aesthetic, interpreted through the modernist eye of David Koma. Slender, elongated structures, flares and peplums, crafted the sculptural but fluid lines echoing the ruffles and flounces associated with the dance.
Romani flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya, inspired a special focus on the trouser this season. The dancer often preformed in matador trousers and created shock waves with her unusually passionate dance while wearing traditionally masculine clothing rather than dresses and skirts. The David Koma trouser is slick and streamlined, with high-waisted tailored lines which break with voluminous shapes of peplums and bell cuffs, simplifying and modernising the contour of the body.
Neon yellow, vivid green and bright lavender make for a bold colour palette; accentuated by the contrast of the classic black and white. The kinetic metal sculptures of American artist Anthony Howe guide the construction and dancelike movement of the garments combining rigid and soft.
Fabrications correspond to the architectural values of garments. A multi-peplum dress appeared in quilted silk, a skirt suit in crepe, bustiers take shape in patent leather, while a dress in silk tulle forms stripes with interchanging transparency. Dresses covered in plexi chainmail created a kaleidoscope of hues, fading from one colour into another.
The designer’s signature hems extended this season into floor-length evening gowns, mesmerising in mirror embellishment. The gowns – which are a first for David Koma – were amplified in rich surface decoration into the collection which was the perfect mix between flamenco glamour and sporty edge.
*Runway imagery courtesy of InDigital / David Koma
