The dark SS16 collection by the London based Serbian designer Marko Mitanovski was not exactly qualified as your typical spring summer collection. the reoccurring Gothic dark nature and fascinating dramatics with an intense fashion narrative and heavily theatrical elements featured a not- so- sunny disposition.

Mitanovski lashed out against conventional styling since graduating from the College of Design Belgrade in 2009, his work since then captured the attention of international publications and his current collection was not different then his signature line of work – a mixture of classic and modern culture, technically detailed construction alongside geometrical lines which create architectural structures.

The spectacular collection was horror influenced with dark presence and rigid forms. inspired from the amorphous forms found in nature that reflects the ability to show pain and fear and centered on cathartic pain release as seen in Munch’s ‘The Scream’, Hitchcock’s ‘The Birds’ and Psycho’ supported the all black elements of the collections with reflective beading and a dramatic form and texture, entirely crafted from latex and leather..

The collection was vivid and grim at the same time. Does that make sense? Perhaps it was the combination of the entirely black looks and the well-crafted shapes and textures.

Short corseted dresses were paired with black bandages, dresses were covered with hundreds of round bobbly lumpy circles continued into sparkling headwear pieces, an exaggerated neck collar engrossed the top of one outfit and theatrical latex capes.

In this collection Mitanovski collaborated with four incredibly talented sculptors: Sonja Gajic, Ivan Stevanovic, Miki Lakobrija and Milan Stosic, whose illustration of abstract shapes and figuration portrayed the emotions, and therefore proved paramount to the fashion story.

Legs were adorned in slashed and corseted leather stockings that repeatedly appeared on the catwalk and open cross stitching exposed the sides of dresses creating a look that would be fit in any horror genre, Jewelry, designed by the brand De Mode, was striking and  beautifully distinctive, continuing  the overall essence of Marko Mitanovski’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection.

 

Marko Mitanovski SS16. Photograph: Mike Rolls

Vivid and grim at the same time. Marko Mitanovski SS16. Photograph: Mike Rolls

Legs were adorned in slashed and corseted leather stockings. Marko Mitanovski SS16 Photograph: Mike Rolls

Marko Mitanovski SS16 Photograph: Mike Rolls

An exaggerated neck collar. Marko Mitanovski SS16 Photograph: Mike Rolls

Marko Mitanovski SS16 Photograph: Mike Rolls

Horror influenced with dark presence.Marko Mitanovski SS16 Photograph: Mike Rolls

Marko Mitanovski SS16 Photograph: Mike Rolls

Entirely black look. Marko Mitanovski SS16 Photograph: Mike Rolls

Beading and a dramatic form and texture

Technically detailed collection. Marko MitanovskI SS16. Photograph: Mike Rolls